An Evening to Remember!

The inaugural event of BSA’s Talent Supper Series took off to a fantastic start last week, which was hosted by BSA’s own Chair, Marie Cheong-Thong, together with the talented chef Akemi Yokoyama. The event focused on introducing outstanding examples of sake made in the U.S., alongside delicious food created by Akemi, using inspiration from chef Marie Chiba. It was a perfect blend of traditional izakaya-style soul food, and exciting New World sake. Interesting combinations for adventurous palates were clear throughout.

Hajimemashou!

We began with Den Sake’s Blanc, which offered crisp, citrus notes alongside cereal and lactic undertones – the citric element being produced by the slightly unorthodox use of white koji (hence, Blanc) which encouraged the production of citric acid in the shubo, alongside the traditional yellow koji which primarily produces lactic acids. This balance was not overpowering but instead offered a refreshing, crisp, palate which opened the evening in an extraordinary fashion.

Furthermore, Den Sake had plenty to offer demonstrating their skill in nama, with Red Label Batch 1 and Original Batch 16, all of which worked wonders with Akemi’s starters of pickled cucumber in sweet soy sauce; Kyoto style pickled mooli with yuzu; and Kinzanji miso with sansho and ginger. Acidity levels in the nama styles produced worked wonderfully with the pickled vegetables, causing a soft illusion of sweetness which brought you back for more of both the starters and the sake.

Many enthusiasts will be aware that U.S. producers often use Californian grown Japonica rice and this was true for all of the breweries of the night. Den Sake proudly display on their bottles both the farm that produced the rice, as well as its variety. It was pleasing to see both the king, Yamada Nishiki,  shown alongside Californian, selectively bred, Calhikari.  

Both strains of Japonica contain a starch structure which helps produce sake suited for lighter fare, as well as sushi, salads and soups. The culinary highlight of the evening for me was Akemi’s interpretation of Marie Chiba’s recipes. The strawberry shira-ae with walnuts and tofu was a combination that I was not expecting but found so moreish: light and refreshing but devilishly moreish, it paired well with both ginjo and nama variants of sake without overpowering sweetness.

Truly the food was phenomenal, Akemi took great pains and effort over each item and the care and craft was evident in both presentation and taste. I cannot think of one item I would not eat again. Even karaage, a staple soul food, seemed elevated. Crisp on the outside but with tender meat inside – we matched these with Kato Sake Works’ Junmai and Kimoto Nigori.

Kato Sake Works did not disappoint. Kimoto preparation of the shubo is a painstaking traditional method for the brewers’ starter. This typically leaves a high acidity. Kato Sake Works was no exception. This slightly high acidity mixed well with the tempering of the nigori, blending together for a delicate, yet strong, flavour which worked well with the side sauces from Marie Chiba’s recipes. Particularly the smoked pickled mooli iburigakko with cream cheese and mayonnaise. This did not, however, overshadow the A5 Wagyu beef sando which followed. A delight, even without sake!

Before dessert, we were treated to a representation from the New York-based Sakagura, Brooklyn Kura, which was followed with a trilogy of sushi nigiri. Both matched wonderfully, scallops with yuzu and shio koji working with Brooklyn Kura’s Blue Door (Junmai Namazake). The light, liveliness of Blue Door matched the pace of the citric yuzu presented.

Finally, for dessert, mitsurashi dango alongside the powerful Junmai Ginjo Nama Genshu from Sequoia. A fantastic, traditional, Japanese dessert of sweet rice dumplings smothered in a sweet soy glaze, matched with a boastful and intense sake which leaves an impression are large as the mighty Redwood its Sakagura gains its name from. Together, a powerful reminder of the incredible flavours at either end of the globe and a perfect conclusion for the evening.

It was an thoroughly well thought-through evening with each pairing covered by our hosts. Akemi’s wonderful constructions helped pace the flow of sake and kept conversation lively and interactive. Discussions around the table constantly praising pairings and a small viewing gallery of onlookers watching Akemi create each course.

Massive thanks to Marie for planning, arranging and conducting the evening. Each Sake was presented extremely well with Marie’s knowledge and expertise clearly apparent for all. It was a treat to hear Marie’s explanations and stories of her visits to the Sakagura presented. I walked away feeling as though I had learnt much about U.S. productions, attitudes and about the quality of the sake produced by U.S. Sakagura. Both educational and enjoyable, I will definitely be attending the next in BSA’s Talent Supper Series.

A video of the evening can be viewed here: Video Courtesy of Rie Hamaguchi, Branch of Wisdom

© Written by Ben Hall, Tokkuri Limited, 2023